2017 Varvara Castello di Bilgheri
- Paolo Mittiga

- Sep 8
- 2 min read
Varvàra 2017 – Castello di Bolgheri
Bolgheri DOC – Tuscany, Italy
Producer Overview
Castello di Bolgheri is one of the historic estates at the heart of the celebrated Bolgheri appellation, in the province of Livorno, Tuscany. The castle itself dates back to the 13th century and remains under the stewardship of the Counts della Gherardesca, a noble family deeply intertwined with the region’s history. The estate’s vineyards stretch across prime Bolgheri terroir, where maritime breezes, sandy-clay soils, and a temperate climate contribute to wines of elegance, depth, and longevity.
In 2018, The Wine Voyager visited the estate, experiencing firsthand the perfect harmony between tradition and innovation. Walking through the sunlit vineyards framed by cypress-lined roads, and touring the gravity-flow cellar, it was clear that the family’s approach to viticulture prioritizes precision, sustainability, and respect for the land.
Wine Composition
Varvàra is a Bordeaux-inspired blend crafted to express both Bolgheri’s terroir and the estate’s contemporary vision. The 2017 vintage is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, each vinified separately before blending, then aged in French oak barriques for about 12 months.
Tasting Notes
• Appearance: Deep, youthful ruby with garnet reflections, displaying impressive concentration and brightness.
• Nose: Expressive and layered, opening with ripe blackberries, cassis, and Morello cherries, followed by refined notes of violets, tobacco leaf, cedar, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs. Hints of cocoa and sweet spices emerge with aeration, a nod to the judicious oak aging.
• Palate: Medium to full-bodied with a polished texture. The fruit core is ripe and generous—black plum, blackberry, and blackcurrant—balanced by savory nuances of graphite and a subtle balsamic lift. The tannins are fine-grained yet firm, supporting the wine’s structure without overpowering its elegance.
• Finish: Long and persistent, with lingering notes of dark fruit, mocha, and a whisper of licorice, underscored by a fresh acidity that promises further aging potential.
Conclusion
Varvàra 2017 is a beautifully balanced Bolgheri red that combines ripe Mediterranean generosity with the finesse of Bordeaux varietals. In its youth, it shows vibrant fruit and well-integrated oak, but it has the depth to evolve gracefully over the next 5–7 years. A fine representation of Castello di Bolgheri’s philosophy—rooted in tradition yet embracing modern precision.
Serving Suggestion: Decant for one hour before serving at 16–18°C. Ideal with bistecca alla fiorentina, braised short ribs, or aged pecorino.


Comments