2019 I Borboni “Santa Patena” Asprinio d’Aversa DOC

The Santa Patena is I Borboni’s flagship expression of Asprinio d’Aversa, a wine created to demonstrate that this historic Campanian white grape is capable of developing complexity through bottle aging rather than being appreciated only for its youthful freshness and vibrant acidity. The name “Santa Patena” refers to the patena, the liturgical plate used during the Eucharist, a tribute to the deep historical and religious roots of the Aversa territory and its centuries-old viticultural tradition.

After several years in bottle, the wine displayed a deep golden color, a clear indication of its evolution. The medium-low viscosity was consistent with its modest 12.5% ABV.

The bouquet was undoubtedly the highlight of the tasting. It opened with attractive aromas of candied yellow peach, dried apricot, preserved citrus peel, and delicate tertiary notes reminiscent of fruit candies, honey, and light oxidative nuances. The nose remained expressive and pleasant, suggesting that the wine had retained much of its aromatic character.

The palate, however, did not fully deliver on the promise of the bouquet. While the acidity was still present, the wine had largely lost its structure, depth, and persistence. The finish faded quickly, leaving little of the complexity anticipated from the aromatic profile. It seemed that the fruit had receded without being fully replaced by the richness and layered tertiary development expected from a successful age-worthy white wine.

Served alongside grilled swordfish, the pairing further highlighted the wine’s limitations, as the fish’s rich texture and pronounced flavor overwhelmed its delicate palate.

The tasting ultimately raised an interesting question rather than providing a definitive answer. Was this bottle simply beyond its optimal drinking window, or does Asprinio, despite its remarkable acidity, have limitations as a long-aging white? Based on this example, the wine appeared to have reached—or perhaps passed—its peak maturity.

Score: 77/100

PM