2020 Masseria Frattasi Aglianico del Taburno Iovi Tonant Riserva

2020 Masseria Frattasi “Iovi Tonant” Riserva

Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, Campania

The name Iovi Tonant—“Jupiter the Thunderer”—seems particularly appropriate for this powerful yet finely composed expression of Aglianico. Produced entirely from Aglianico grown at approximately 500 metres above sea level in the San Pietro vineyard near Montesarchio, the vines stand on a stony ridge of clay and limestone overlooking the Taburno landscape. The grapes are harvested by hand, traditionally as late as early November, allowing this famously slow-ripening variety to reach full phenolic maturity. The wine undergoes 18 months of maturation in barriques, followed by at least 12 months in bottle. Masseria Frattasi⁠

The 2020 pours a deep, almost impenetrable ruby red, still displaying youthful purple reflections at the rim. Initially restrained, the bouquet gradually unfolds into an intense and layered composition of ripe black cherry, blackberry preserve, dark plum and dried blueberry. With air, the fruit is joined by violet, Mediterranean herbs, liquorice and crushed black pepper, followed by more evolved nuances of tobacco leaf, bitter cocoa, cedar, leather and warm earth. A balsamic current of eucalyptus and wild mint provides lift, while a suggestion of graphite and crushed limestone recalls the wine’s elevated, mineral-rich origins.

The palate is full-bodied, concentrated and authoritative, yet it avoids heaviness. Dense dark fruit forms the wine’s core, supported by the firm acidity and formidable tannic architecture that define serious Aglianico. The tannins remain youthful and assertive, but they are ripe, finely grained and increasingly integrated, lending structure without obscuring the fruit. Notes of black cherry, damson plum and blackberry return alongside dark chocolate, espresso, tobacco, sweet spices and a distinct ferrous-mineral character.

Despite its power, the wine possesses admirable freshness. The altitude of the vineyard appears to have preserved both aromatic clarity and tension, creating a compelling contrast between the warmth of the ripe fruit and the cooler sensations of herbs, minerals and balsamic spice. The oak is evident but well absorbed, contributing polish and complexity rather than sweetness.

The finish is long, dry and persistent, leaving impressions of black fruit, liquorice, cocoa, flint and savoury spice. This is a commanding mountain Aglianico: muscular but controlled, richly textured yet still vibrant, with the depth and structure required for prolonged ageing.

Already expressive after generous aeration, the 2020 remains at an early stage of its evolution. Decanting for two to three hours is advisable if opened now, although another five to ten years in the cellar should bring greater harmony and reveal more complex notes of dried flowers, forest floor, truffle and tobacco.

Serve at approximately 18°C in a large glass. It is an excellent companion to slow-cooked lamb, braised beef, wild boar, roasted game, aged caciocavallo or a traditional ragù napoletano.

PM 94