2024 Fattoria Alois Caiati Campania IGT

The 2024 Caiatì from Fattoria Alois is far more than an expression of Pallagrello Bianco: it is a compelling reminder of Campania’s extraordinary ability to preserve its viticultural history. Once cultivated for the Bourbon court and included among the varieties planted in the celebrated Vigna del Ventaglio at the Royal Palace of Caserta, Pallagrello Bianco came perilously close to disappearing. Its recovery represents one of the most fascinating chapters in the modern renaissance of Campanian wine.

Fattoria Alois has played a decisive role in that revival. The estate is located near Pontelatone, in the province of Caserta, among the rolling foothills of the Monti Caiatini. Caiatì is produced entirely from Pallagrello Bianco grown in the estate’s clay and limestone-rich soils. A brief cold maceration precedes fermentation in stainless steel, preserving the grape’s aromatic identity, followed by further refinement in the bottle. The producer’s technical information confirms the varietal composition and vinification⁠.

In the glass, the 2024 Caiatì displays a luminous golden-straw colour, touched by subtle bronze reflections. The appearance already suggests a white wine with greater substance and maturity than its age might initially imply.

The nose opens gradually rather than explosively. Fresh pear, yellow apple and ripe apricot emerge first, followed by lemon peel, bergamot and a delicate suggestion of melon. With air, the aromatic profile becomes more complex and distinctively Mediterranean: acacia blossom, dried hay, wild herbs and a faint trace of beeswax appear, accompanied by toasted almond and a subtle cereal-like nuance. Beneath the fruit lies a mineral and almost marine sensation, reminiscent of wet limestone and a breeze carrying salt from a distant coastline.

The palate is where Caiatì reveals its true personality. The entrance is broad, generous and almost creamy, supported by ripe orchard and stone fruit. Yet the wine never becomes heavy. A vibrant citrus freshness quickly provides direction, while a pronounced saline quality cuts through the richness and gives the wine energy and definition. Pear and apricot return alongside preserved lemon, grapefruit zest and a restrained tropical suggestion, but the fruit is consistently balanced by savoury notes of herbs, crushed stone and blanched almond.

Its texture is one of the most attractive aspects of the wine: substantial and tactile, yet composed, with a subtle phenolic grip that adds structure without compromising elegance. The acidity is harmonious rather than aggressive, perfectly integrated into the wine’s generous body. The finish is long, dry and persistent, leaving alternating impressions of citrus peel, almond, limestone and sea salt. That final, slightly bitter almond note is particularly evocative of the finest indigenous white varieties of Campania.

The 2024 Caiatì is simultaneously ancient and modern: ancient in its genetic heritage and cultural significance, modern in the precision and purity of its execution. It does not rely on excessive aromatic exuberance. Instead, it speaks through texture, savoury depth and mineral persistence. It is a white wine with a strong territorial identity—quietly powerful, intellectually engaging and unmistakably Campanian.

It would be an excellent companion to grilled or baked fish, spaghetti with clams, octopus salad, buffalo mozzarella, seafood risotto or white meats prepared with Mediterranean herbs. It can be enjoyed now, but its structure and balance suggest that several years of bottle development will bring additional complexity, allowing its floral and citrus character to evolve toward honey, dried herbs and toasted nuts.

Evaluation: PM 92/100