Visit at Sorrentino Winery by Mount Vesuvius

A visit to the Sorrentino winery, nestled in the foothills of Mount Vesuvius, is an unforgettable experience. On an unusually warm and sunny November day, we had the pleasure of exploring this gem. The panoramic views alone are worth the trip: the Sorrento Peninsula, the shimmering blue sea, and the iconic silhouette of Capri feel so close you could almost touch them. The air was filled with the fragrant scent of oranges and tangerines from nearby groves, mingling with the earthy aroma of the vineyards, now dressed in their autumn palette of reddish yellows and deep browns. A few clusters of grapes still hung on the vines, which we initially thought were destined for late-harvest sweet wines. However, Carmelo, our exceptional guide, explained that these were simply grapes left behind during the main harvest because they hadn’t fully ripened.

Carmelo’s expertise and storytelling brought the land and its traditions to life. He shared anecdotes about the winery’s philosophy, rooted in sustainable and organic practices. At Sorrentino, nature is not just a backdrop; it’s an active participant. Bees, butterflies, and lizards thrive in this untouched ecosystem, contributing to pollination and the natural cycles that nurture the vines. The volcanic terroir, unique to this region, creates conditions where phylloxera cannot survive, allowing the winery to cultivate ungrafted vines. These ancient vines, with their large, gnarled trunks—some over a century old—produce grapes of exceptional quality and character.

Carmelo introduced us to the indigenous grape varieties that define Sorrentino’s wines. Caprettone, named for its goat-like beard-shaped clusters, is a standout white grape that thrives in this mineral-rich soil. We also learned about Piedirosso, or Per ’e Palumm in Neapolitan dialect, meaning “pigeon’s feet,” a red grape named for its reddish stems. Both varieties are deeply expressive of the volcanic terroir, yielding wines with extraordinary depth and complexity. In compliance with strict local regulations, irrigation is forbidden in the Vesuvius region, forcing the vines to dig deep—sometimes as far as 25 meters—for water and nutrients. This struggle adds remarkable richness and intensity to the wines, a hallmark of Sorrentino’s offerings.

As we strolled through the vineyards under the gentle November sun, Carmelo showed us vines that appeared almost tree-like in their stature and age. These hardy plants are living testaments to the resilience and history of this land.

The wine tasting that followed was equally memorable. From crisp, mineral-driven whites to bold, structured reds, each glass told the story of the volcanic soil, the Mediterranean climate, and the hands that carefully tended the vines. Among the highlights were their exceptional Lacryma Christi wines, both white and red. These wines, whose name means “Tears of Christ,” have a mythical history tied to the land, and their flavors deliver on that legacy. The whites are vibrant, with notes of citrus and herbs, while the reds are bold yet balanced, with earthy undertones and hints of cherry and spice.

Inspired by the experience, I couldn’t resist bringing home a selection of these remarkable wines for my cellar. Sorrentino winery isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a journey into the soul of Campania’s winemaking tradition, steeped in history, passion, and the enduring power of nature.